"It is speculated that long ago some ravioli lost their jackets while cooking; the result was decried as 'malfatti' (badly made). But when diners discovered the delicious results, the cook skipped the dough deliberately the next time. Accompany these dumplings with a crisp salad of Caesar-dressed romaine and cucumbers, crunchy breadsticks, and a bottle of Chianti." — Safeway