Fondant Potatoes, Larded Tenderloin But Where's An Aspic When You Need One? - Learning To Cook Blog at - 305296

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Fondant Potatoes, Larded Tenderloin But Where's An Aspic When You Need One? 
Jun. 26, 2013 4:05 pm 
Updated: Jul. 4, 2013 5:34 pm
So I was gazing at the AR website as I all too often do. My eyes beheld a wondrous site! Fondant Potatoes by Chef John were calling out to me. They looked so delicious and easy to make that I knew I had to try them. As I read the Food Wishes blog, I came across these fateful words: "Every once in a while I get a food wish that instantly takes me back to culinary school. Things like aspic (not happening), larding a tenderloin (not happening)..." And then he continued on about Fondant Potatoes in words that made me want to try this classic dish.

The potatoes are in the oven as I type this. They smell fantastic and look so beautiful I could almost weep, except I'm a tough guy, and we tough guys don't weep! Just looking at the recipe, I knew they were going to be easy to make. And so I decided that I might as well make a larded pork tenderloin.

How does one lard a tenderloin? Sadly, I landed on a website that deceived me into thinking it was as easy as wrapping a loin with streaky bacon. Recipe in hand, I ignored it and went my own way! It is still quite similar, and so I guess I am not being as much a rebel in this case. I stuffed the tenderloin with a whole grain Dijon and artichoke tapenade. Then I wrapped it in a nice maple cured bacon. This is actually called barding, not larding. It's in the oven making marvelous odors!   Although this is not the classic method of larding, which seems to be more like inserting strips of bacon or lard (lardoons) into the meat that is to be roasted, it might be considered lazy man's larding. If you wanted to lard the meat though, it really isn't that hard to do. There is a tool sold called a larding needle that makes larding a piece of lean meat a snap.

Aspic, on the other hand, takes considerable forethought to pull off correctly. There is just no way of making what I wanted to as a appetizer course. In Bavaria they make wonderful pickled meats that are served in aspic. My favorite is Bratensuelze, but Pressack is also wonderful. Pressack comes in white and black varieties, the only difference that I am aware of is that black Pressack is made with blood. Bratensuelze can come in many different ways being nothing more than chunks of cooked pork surrounded by a lovely, vinegary aspic. Sometimes onions, carrots and eggs are put in suspension with the roast pork. It is often served with roasted potatoes and it is so good! Pressack is made into a round loaf-like sausage and then after it has set it can be sliced about 1/4" thick and served with thinly sliced onion, a vinegar sauce and Gurken. There's really nothing better on a warm summer day than to eat Assorted Pressack and Weissbier at a Biergarten.

Why this long ramble? I guess I felt the need to call attention to the fact that aspic and larding, are not to be avoided. Do they take time? Sure. But they are delicious methods of cookery that should be embraced, not avoided. At least try larding or barding a pork or venison roast. I don't know if I will run out and buy a larding needle right now, but I might think about it!
Photo Detail
Barded Pork Roast And Fondant Potatoes
Photo Detail
Jun. 26, 2013 10:12 pm
Welcome back, I guess you are feeling better! Now I have to go Google a larding needle. I have wrapped filet mignon in bacon, so I've been barding it? Hmmm.
Jun. 27, 2013 3:07 am
Hey Doc, you have been gone a while. Have you moved yet? I wrap chicken breasts in bacon, does that count? Welcome back.
Jun. 27, 2013 6:44 am
Hello Doc, Nice to see you back here. I haven't used a larding needle. I have used toothpicks which are a pain to use when wrapping bacon on such meat as chicken, etc.
Jun. 27, 2013 7:46 am
Fondant potatoes, hmm. Nice to see you back!
Jun. 27, 2013 9:11 am
Thanks BSM! I am feeling better. Oral surgery is not fun, even the little bit that I had. I can't even imagine what Doug has gone through! I think wrapping bacon around a Filet Mignon counts as barding, but maybe it refers to wrapping a whole roast in bacon or fat. Larding needles look cool, but are not multitaskers!
Jun. 27, 2013 9:14 am
manella, thanks for the welcome back. I was not on AR much because my computer went belly up for a time, and I was having so much fun getting it back to the way I like it after losing everything. I think the chicken counts as being barded, but not sure. We haven't moved yet, but I am so tired of Philadelphia traffic, that I am looking forward to going soon!
Jun. 27, 2013 9:21 am
Lela, how are you? I didn't need to use toothpicks for the pork loin. The bacon made a perfect seam and I just placed the whole, wrapped loin in a baking dish. It was so good!
Jun. 27, 2013 9:23 am
Hi Cat! My Fondant Potatoes didn't turn out that good, but I'll try again. I think I know what went wrong. The ones from the video Chef John did looked really good. Thanks for the welcome back!
Jun. 27, 2013 11:27 am
Whatever you call it, your meal looks absolutely beautiful and delicious!
Jun. 27, 2013 12:24 pm
Thisni Caza, thank you so much for your kind words! Steamed broccoli is always beautiful, and the barded pork loin looked (and was) pretty tasty, but I was a bit disappointed that the potatoes didn't look as pretty as they should have. I know what I did wrong. I cooked the roast and potatoes together, and either the extra moisture from the roast kept the potatoes from crisping, or the temperature was too low for the potatoes. The roast was supposed to cook at 375 F and the potatoes at 425 F. I compromised at 395 F.
Jun. 27, 2013 9:53 pm
Hmmmm - pork, lard, taters??? Yum! can I volunteer to be a taste tester?
Jun. 28, 2013 5:42 am
A British friend of mine used to make a similar potato dish, but she used goose fat in which to brown the potatoes. I have never had crisper, golden brown potatoes in my life, and they tasted better than any other potato I've ever had. And you can certainly be a taste tester!
Jun. 28, 2013 5:25 pm
Yup! Sure gonna give the Fondant Potatoes a try! I suspect a couple of them would look fine sitting on a screaming hot sizzle plate with a jumping prime rib steak fresh off the grill!
Jun. 28, 2013 6:00 pm
When I first heard about fondant potatoes, I was thinking of the fondant that bakers put on cakes! I wondered why someone would want to make a facsimile of a potato for a cake! But WOW! I can't wait to try those potatoes!
Jun. 28, 2013 7:48 pm
Hi Doc. Nice post. I just watched the fondant potatoes video. I think I need to try those babies. Have never met a potato I didn't like! I'll bet yours were tasty anyway.
Jun. 28, 2013 8:07 pm
Mike, they were good. The thyme and butter worked so well with the potatoes! My oldest daughter ate the leftovers warmed in the microwave and liked them! I was going to reheat in the oven, but she wouldn't wait!
Jun. 28, 2013 8:08 pm
Marianne, I think you will like them very much. Especially if you get them crisp the way they should be!
Jun. 28, 2013 8:09 pm
Peggy, thanks for the kind words! I'm like you in that potatoes are a favorite food!
Jun. 29, 2013 6:20 am
Oh my goodness; can't wait to make the fondant potatoes. Will pass on the aspic, though. Definitely not a favorite food. Great blog, btw.
Jun. 29, 2013 9:31 am
Midwestchef, I have to admit that aspic was not something I sought out before someone got me to try it. I find it so refreshing as a light meal on a hot day! I think I am going to have to find recipes, make it and post it here on AllRecipes so everyone can see it!
Jul. 4, 2013 5:34 pm
So you didn't say what fondant potaoes were. I have visions of potaotes wrapped in fondant icing. Please correct my vision.
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Doc Simonson

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About Me
I'm old and smelly, kinda like a really good salami with that really nice white mould all over it.
My favorite things to cook
Meat, carbs, meat, carbs, meat, carbs and did I mention meat?
My favorite family cooking traditions
Drop a plate of Pierogis and sausages in front of me and watch my eyes glaze over in pure joy.
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Schweinebraten mit Knoedel und Krautsalat. Also Edel Hirsch Gulasch was very nice. I make killer Spaetzle and Knockerl also.
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There aren't enough electrons in cyberspace! :) Actually, the tragedies usually involve well intentioned creativity out of control.
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