Fondant Potatoes, Larded Tenderloin But Where's An Aspic When You Need One?
Jun. 26, 2013 4:05 pm
Updated: Jul. 4, 2013 5:34 pm
So I was gazing at the AR website as I all too often do. My eyes beheld a wondrous site! Fondant Potatoes by Chef John were calling out to me. They looked so delicious and easy to make that I knew I had to try them. As I read the Food Wishes blog, I came
across these fateful words: "Every once in a while I get a food wish that instantly takes me back to culinary
school. Things like aspic (not happening), larding a tenderloin (not happening)..." And then he continued on about Fondant Potatoes in words that made me want to try this classic dish.
The potatoes are in the oven as I type this. They smell fantastic and look so beautiful I could almost weep, except I'm a tough guy, and we tough guys don't weep! Just looking at the recipe, I knew they were going to be easy to make. And so I decided that I
might as well make a larded pork tenderloin.
How does one lard a tenderloin? Sadly, I landed on a website that deceived me into thinking it was as easy as wrapping a loin with streaky bacon. Recipe in hand, I ignored it and went my own way! It is still quite similar, and so I guess I am not being as much
a rebel in this case. I stuffed the tenderloin with a whole grain Dijon and artichoke tapenade. Then I wrapped it in a nice maple cured bacon. This is actually called barding, not larding. It's in the oven making marvelous odors! Although this is not the
classic method of larding, which seems to be more like inserting strips of bacon or lard (lardoons) into the meat that is to be roasted, it might be considered lazy man's larding. If you wanted to lard the meat though, it really isn't that hard to do. There
is a tool sold called a larding needle that makes larding a piece of lean meat a snap.
Aspic, on the other hand, takes considerable forethought to pull off correctly. There is just no way of making what I wanted to as a appetizer course. In Bavaria they make wonderful pickled meats that are served in aspic. My favorite is Bratensuelze, but Pressack
is also wonderful. Pressack comes in white and black varieties, the only difference that I am aware of is that black Pressack is made with blood. Bratensuelze can come in many different ways being nothing more than chunks of cooked pork surrounded by a lovely,
vinegary aspic. Sometimes onions, carrots and eggs are put in suspension with the roast pork. It is often served with roasted potatoes and it is so good! Pressack is made into a round loaf-like sausage and then after it has set it can be sliced about 1/4"
thick and served with thinly sliced onion, a vinegar sauce and Gurken. There's really nothing better on a warm summer day than to eat Assorted Pressack and Weissbier at a Biergarten.
Why this long ramble? I guess I felt the need to call attention to the fact that aspic and larding, are not to be avoided. Do they take time? Sure. But they are delicious methods of cookery that should be embraced, not avoided. At least try larding or barding
a pork or venison roast. I don't know if I will run out and buy a larding needle right now, but I might think about it!
Barded Pork Roast And Fondant Potatoes