Pretty good, but I was hoping for something that rivaled the "Katie O'Reilly" brand that is sold in stores around St. Patrick's day and has very similar ingredients. I added an egg to help hold the loaf together, and changed some of the whole wheat flour to oat flour, which unfortunately, made it more crumbly.
If you don't have buttermilk (which can be difficult to find in stores), you can go a couple of different directions. You can follow the advice of one of the other reviewers and use vinegar milk. (Not the tastiest option.) You can buy powdered buttermilk in bulk food stores, which is what I used, and is also not terribly tasty. Yogurt mixed with a bit of milk to loosen it up is a good option, although lowfat yogurt can also be a bit bland. The tastiest substitute is probably sour cream, but also the fattiest.
I added 2 cups of currents, which gave it a nice sweet flavor.
I think next time I'll add more oil or butter to give the loaf more flavor.
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