I made this recipe using some of the modifications suggested by other. I decreased the sugar to 2.5 cups and added 1/4 cup buttermilk. The crumb was tender and dense, and the flavor was subtle. I did have a hard time telling if it was done, and ended up over baking it a bit. I don't know that you really need to wait for a the toothpick to come out clean. Its probably fine if the crumbs are not wet and you've been baking for over an hour. It will keep baking a bit in the pan after you remove it from the oven. I will probably make this again.
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I made this recipe using some of the modifications suggested by other. I decreased the sugar...