Like Rosé, Riesling suffers from an historic bias. America’s early experience with Riesling came from very sweet wines made in Germany and shipped here with funny names and big advertising budgets. Lots of Americans learned to say, "I'd like a dry wine," after suffering through those early German mass-market monsters. In fact, good Riesling can range from bone dry to almost honey sweet, and all can be quite wonderful. What makes Riesling special is the wonderful floral character and the combination of acid and sugar that can give the wine exceptional balance and depth of flavor. It can range from a fresh, fruity cocktail wine to a deeply complex and serious wine best drunk by itself for fullest appreciation. Unlike most white wines, great Riesling can live a long life and get better with age. Unlike Chardonnay, America's most popular white wine, most Riesling lies lightly on the palate and is not tiring as a cocktail wine. It works with a wider range of food because of its sharper acidity. So, try it on your porch with friends this summer, or have it with pasta or fish or roast chicken or lobster or spicy foods. If you want a rare treat, splurge and buy a better bottle of Riesling Spätlese (sweet) or Auslese (sweeter) as an aperitif with great bleu cheese or pâté and just listen to the groans of pleasure from your friends. Riesling is a bit different and surprising at first, but keep tasting different versions and I'll bet it becomes one of your favorite wines. I also love to use it for its distinctive flavor in cooking dishes that call for a little white wine.
Riesling is made in many countries, but the great Rieslings are made in Germany. We're lucky now to have the exceptional 2005 vintage just coming into the market. I have tried a number of them, and they are amazing. Go. Buy some. Now. Wonderful Rieslings are also made in Alsace, France. Australia makes some decent Rieslings and several of my low-price favorites lately have come from Columbia Valley in Washington Chateau Ste. Michelle particularly seems to focus on making very good, inexpensive Riesling. Stick close to the list below or ask a good merchant who has actually tasted the wine and you may discover a new favorite.
2006 Dr. L Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Consistently good wine and one of my house favorites in the summer. Delicate nose of honeysuckle and wildflower with vibrant flavors of pears and peaches and spice. Perfectly balanced with a touch of sweetness offset by an acidic crispness. Good with a wide range of food. $12
2005 Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling, Oregon
Very nice wine from an American producer. This is a lovely wine for cocktails with friends or just to sip while relaxing. It is a mouthful of peaches and cream and pears with those same scents on the nose. Soft and luscious on the palate. $13
2005 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Don't be put off by these long German names, there are wonderful wines inside the bottles. This is a soft, viscous wine with deep honeyed apricot and peach flavors. It is slightly sweet with good balance. I would serve it with a good bleu cheese or pâté and listen to the low moans of pleasure from my friends. $14.
2005 Saint M Riesling, Pfalz, Germany
This is an interesting wine made in Germany by Dr. Ernst Loosen (Dr. L) for Chateau Ste. Michelle to import into the U.S. It is a crisp, refreshing wine with a floral nose and tart Granny Smith apple and lime flavors. Just a touch of sweetness. $12
2004 Trimbach Riesling, Alsace, France
This is a bracing wine with pale color and light floral nose. It is dry and crisp with fresh honeysuckle, pear and pineapple flavors. $15
2005 Selbach Riesling Dry, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Very nice wine with a bare hint of sweetness. Rich flavors of white peaches with floral honey butter and a hint of vanilla. $13
Tom Ryder is the former chairman of the Reader's Digest Association and co-owner of The Cookhouse restaurants in Connecticut, and has been a wine aficionado for decades. He's been lucky enough to taste many stellar wines in some of the finest wine regions of the world.
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