Fried Green Tomatoes

Not all green tomatoes are alike. When those shiny emerald orbs first begin to appear on the vines, they're not yet edible. The best-tasting green tomatoes are those that have reached full maturity--that is, the jellylike substance around the seeds has fully formed--and have just the faintest hint of a red blush about their flesh. Once picked, these mature green tomatoes can keep for weeks, slowly edging towards redness. If you do want to store them long-term, arrange them in a single layer in a cool (but not cold) place and check them frequently: one bad tomato can spoil the whole batch.

Fried green tomatoes are a beloved culinary tradition in the South. There are more methods for making fried green tomatoes than you can shake a skillet at, but here are some rules of thumb:

• The tomatoes will hold up best if you cut them horizontally in ¼-inch thick slices.
• If you like, you can sprinkle a tiny pinch of sugar on each slice to chase away any lingering bitterness.
• Before frying, you can simply dredge the slices in seasoned flour, or you can make a thicker breading: dip the slices lightly in flour, then in beaten egg, and then give the tomatoes a good coating of breadcrumbs, cornmeal or cracker crumbs.
• For real down-home flavor, at least part of frying oil should be bacon grease. Regardless of what kind of fat you use, though, it should be good and hot (375 degrees F/190 degrees C) for golden-brown and crispy results.

You'll be amazed at the chameleon-like quality of green tomatoes in desserts. With a little creative seasoning, green tomato pie tastes just like apple pie, and green tomato cake is just a moist and delicious spice cake with a secret. Green tomatoes have also been known to show up in jars of homemade preserves. When you add some sugar, the flavor of green tomatoes becomes quite neutral, and when mixed with other fruit, they become a wonderful way for economical cooks to stretch out a batch of jam or mincemeat.

At the beginning of tomato season in Italy, green and barely-pink tomatoes start showing up in salads. The firm texture of these tomatoes makes them great for grilling, too: perk up your grilled meats by sizzling up some tart green tomato slices, lightly brushed with olive oil, right alongside them. Green tomatoes also make a mighty tasty side dish when they're baked until soft and seasoned with a little butter, chopped herbs and salt. You can also try them in salsas, soups, and vegetable sautés.