First, the Bad News
My wife and I started drinking cheap wine in college because we could afford it and because it did less bodily harm over a long night of partying than the usual alternatives, namely beer or bad whiskey. Gradually, we bought better wine, moving up to the Gallo jug wines, which were then and now pretty decent. I particularly remember Gallo "Hearty Burgundy," which was not especially hearty and was definitely not Burgundy, but it was good. This increasing level of sophistication led to our first bottle of varietal wine and my first wine "epiphany," a moment in which I realized that I was experiencing something different and better than what I had known before. The wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon from Almaden Vineyards, and a little story on the back of the bottle told me that these were the grapes from which the world's greatest wines were made. The Almaden Cabernet was not one of the world's greatest wines. But it was good and different and interesting, and it inspired a long and dedicated study of Cabernet Sauvignon from around the world.
Cabernet Sauvignon grapes do, indeed, serve as the primary ingredient in some of the world's greatest wines. At their best, Cabernets can be breathtaking. They are a lovely deep red in color and often exhibit cedar, violet and dark berry aromas. The flavors are rich and deeply fruity but restrained. There is sophistication and nuance to this taste, flavors with multiple levels worthy of thought. The great brand names are almost mystical to those of us who love wines: Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion, Château Latour, Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Heitz Martha's Vineyard, Ridge Monte Bello, Screaming Eagle, Stag's Leap Cask 23, Sassicaia. Unfortunately, these very special Cabernet-based wines, some of which I used to buy for $8 to $25 a bottle, now regularly sell for well over $100 and even more than $1,000 in a great vintage like 2005 in Bordeaux. That's $1,000 a bottle!
The Good News
The good news is that the world is awash in Cabernet Sauvignon wines. It is only a slight exaggeration to say that any country with a modicum of sunshine and more than two inches of annual rainfall has someone who thinks he (or she) can make Cabernet Sauvignon. Go to your local wine merchant and check out the shelves. You will find hundreds of different "Cabs" in a big store, including wines from countries you didn't even know existed. An astonishing number of these bottles sell for more than $50, a phenomenon driven, I believe, more by ego than the economics of wine making. Except at the very high end of the market where the wines are consistently outstanding, even if ridiculously expensive, there is shockingly little correlation between price and quality. It is absolutely possible today to find $15 Cabernets that are better than $100 Cabernets. So that's what we set out to do with this column.
Hint number one: Don't waste time looking for bargain Cabernets in the Napa Valley or Bordeaux sections of your local wine store. Good inexpensive wines are almost nonexistent there. To be fair, there are some bargains among small Bordeaux producers, but they are very hard to find in most stores in the U.S. So why this vacuum? It is certainly more expensive to make wines in these extraordinary regions, but they have the capability to make sensational $15 Cabernets and have chosen not to. I think they are missing a great opportunity.
If you want to find terrific $15 Cabernets, concentrate your search on the Mendoza region of Argentina, the Columbia Valley of Washington, the central coast of California and on Australia. I tasted a huge number of bottles for this column, and not only did the vast majority of the winners come from these areas, but the majority of the wines on the cusp of acceptance were from there too. There are some absolutely wonderful Cabernets on the list below. They are not wines to put in a cellar and age for years, and the labels won't impress your snobby neighbor. But for drinking with food and people you love, these will delight you.
One suggestion: these Cabs will improve with an hour or two of "breathing." Either pour into a decanter or into glasses and let them sit for a while.
Cabernet Sauvignon
2002 and 2003, Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Estates (Columbia Valley, Washington)
After tasting a couple of dozen big, dense reds, I usually just want a tall mug of cold beer. But this one begs for another sip, and I found myself drinking a glass of it at the end of a long day of sampling these wines. It's just delicious. The deep purple color and a whiff of dark fruit and mocha on the nose make an encouraging opening statement. The wine is almost exotic on the palate, with velvety chocolate, coconut and ripe cherry flavors. I bought the 2002 at one store and the 2003 at another, so you might find either in the market today. Both are very similar and very good, with the 2002 getting a slight edge, perhaps because of an extra year of maturity. I also tried the 2003 Two Vines, which is decent but not as good. The Grand Estates is available for around $12 to $13.
2004, Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza, Argentina)
This wine is an exceptional value at $8 or $9 a bottle. It is earthy, rich and soft with tea and flowers on the nose and vanilla, deep berries and tea on the palate. A very nice wine with no obvious faults.
2004 Edna Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (San Luis Obispo, California)
Fabulous, classic Cabernet nose of cedar, vanilla and dark fruit almost makes you want to dive into the glass. It is edgier on the palate with slightly tart raspberry/blackberry flavors and a touch of pepper and Asian spice. This is a little different, but a very good wine from the central coast of California. It costs from $13 to $15.
2004 Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza, Argentina)
Trapiche is a major Argentine winemaker with about 2,500 acres in the foothills of the Andes. It makes terrific wines and sells them at very fair prices. The 2004 Broquel Cabernet is a beauty. It has a delicate nose with scents of vanilla and lilacs. The flavors are much deeper, with swirls of black cherry, chocolate, coffee and Asian spice. This is a vivid wine and a real good deal, even at the upper end of our $15 limit. This is the somewhat more expensive and worthy brother of the Trapiche Oak Cask.
2004 Concannon, Assemblage Red Wine (Central Coast, California)
This is another terrific wine from the central coast of California. It is elegantly structured with violet and vanilla on the nose and balanced flavors of cherries and blueberries, with a touch of dark chocolate. It's rich and sweet, but not overpowering. The winemaker has blended about 80% Cabernet with some Merlot, Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot. It sells for $12 to $15.
More Cabernet
2003 Maryhill, Winemaker's Blend (Columbia Valley, Washington)
It is such a pleasure to find a wine like this. It's an unusual blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and it manages to draw out some of the best of each of those grape varieties. There is a deep, rich nose of cedar, flowers and spice. The flavors are a soft, seductive mix of dark black fruits, Asian spices and a touch of pepper. It sells for about our limit of $15.
2005 Santa Isabel Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza, Argentina)
This starts with a beautiful nose of dark, ripe fruits and coconut. It is soft and velvety on the palate with a ripe cherry flavor, and it is luscious from beginning to end. This is a real bargain at $5 to $7. This would be great as a house wine on a restaurant wine list.
2005 Oxford Landing Cabernet/Shiraz (South Australia)
This is another bargain charmer at $6 to $8 a bottle, a delicious little wine for those who like them jammy and soft. It's a blend of 65% Cabernet and 35% Shiraz with the latter more dominant, but being civilized by the Cabernet. There is a spicy, dark fruit nose with peppery blackberry-cherry flavors. This will stand up to hefty foods and cheeses.
2004 Riserva Nieto Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza, Argentina)
This lovely wine is made by Bodegas Nieto Senetiner from the northwest Mendoza Valley. They also made the Santa Isabel. The Riserva Nieto costs a little more at $8 to $9 a bottle, and there is a bit more quality here, though both are good. This has a beautiful nose of violets and lilacs with a hint of espresso. The flavors of dark plums with chocolate, coffee and spice are beautifully balanced. This wine got better and better over a couple of hours. (Then again, maybe I did after all those wines.)
2003 Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva (Mendoza, Argentina)
The nose is somewhat subdued, but that's the only thing about this wine that is. Rich red-purple color and delicious raspberry fruitiness makes it seem like a really good Zinfandel. Perfect balance and soft edges complete a terrific bargain package from a winemaker who doesn't seem to make any bad wines. You'll pay $12 to $14.
2005 Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon, The Y Series (South Australia)
Another terrific bargain from the family that makes Oxford Landing. This is a couple of dollars more and in the same quality neighborhood, but has berries, cedar and toast on the nose with chocolaty, red berry fruit flavors and a touch of vanilla. This one is from 100% Cabernet grapes. You'll find it priced from $8 to $10.
What's this?