Although they represent two very different events and distinct religious traditions, Passover and Easter are historically inseparable. Because of their close connection, I decided to try to create a menu that can be served for either feast - or any special spring dinner, for that matter.
We start with a salad of smoked salmon and watercress. Try to buy the commercial bagged watercress that already has been cleaned to speed things along, or you may substitute other mixed salad greens. (I like to make sure there are some bitter ones, such as radicchio and arugula, along with milder greens, such as butter lettuce or baby spinach.)
Also, because this is such a simple salad, all the ingredients should be top-quality. So spring for the best smoked salmon you can find.
For Jewish cooks who prefer not to use vinegar and mustard in the salad dressing, try kosher vinegar and Dijon mustard made expressly for Passover, suggests my friend Marlene Sorosky, the author of Fast & Festive Meals for the Jewish Holidays and many other cookbooks. If you can't find these products, simply increase the lemon juice to 1/4 cup and omit the mustard for a lighter but equally fine dressing. Capers, which are also part of this salad, come bottled in a vinegar-based brine or packed in salt. Again, if vinegar is a concern, buy capers packed in salt, then rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
Because Cornish game hens are festive and readily available, I've made them the centerpiece of this holiday meal. And these little birds cook much more quickly than other holiday roasts, such as lamb or ham. I normally figure on one hen (in the 1 1/2- to 2-pound range) to serve every two guests - especially if you also plan to have a first course and a dessert.
To ensure quick, even roasting and to simplify carving, butterfly each bird before roasting. First remove and discard the package of liver and gizzards. Rinse the bird thoroughly under running water, then pat dry on paper towels. On a heavy cutting board, place the bird, breast side down, with its tail end facing you. Using a pair of heavy-duty kitchen scissors, cut down the entire length of the backbone. Turn the split hen breast side up and use your palm to press on it so the bird lies flat.
If you're not in a hurry, take the time to soak the Cornish hens in a saltwater bath before roasting. Not only does this initial brining cleanse the birds, but it also makes them taste pleasantly seasoned right down to the bone. (If you can't find kosher salt, substitute 1 1/3 cups regular table salt.) To help the birds turn an appetizing brown color, I brush them with a mix of apricot jam and balsamic vinegar (you may substitute kosher vinegar).
And who doesn't like to end things on a chocolate note? Dessert is individual molten chocolate cakes. They're simple and elegant, and they bake in under 10 minutes in a standard muffin pan. The best part about these little beauties is that the cake batter is extremely forgiving: You can make it up to six hours before you plan to serve the cakes.
Fill the pans with batter and refrigerate, but remember to remove the pan far enough in advance of baking to let the batter return to room temperature.
Ground matzo meal stands in beautifully for the very small amount of flour needed to make the cakes. If substituting margarine for the butter, don't forget to seek out the unsalted variety. Otherwise, the cakes will be too salty. Raspberries, sugared or not, complete the dessert plate - and a little whipped cream or ice cream might round things out for those celebrating Easter.
Most important, these recipes are so simple that whether you're doing a Seder or cooking up an Easter feast, you'll have time to spend with the people who have gathered to celebrate. And isn't that one of the benefits of these two holidays?
Copyright 2004 USA Weekend and columnist Pam Anderson. All rights reserved.
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